The B Diaries

Playa Playa playin' around

Mon, 23 Mar 2009 23:55:07 -0500

Playa Del Carmen, Mexico

Who are these people? Where did these beautiful people come from?? I contemplated this at Bar Diablito in Playa Del Carmen. Deep in the heart of the Mexican Riviera, Playa has not the fabled hippy stylishness of Tulum. It is however the antidote to Cancun, although not immune to SPRING BREAK!!! A huge poster for John Digweed’s apearance at the Cancun “Welcome To Spring Break’ event makes me realize there is perhaps no antidote to Generation baby boom boom’s naivety to DJ’s paid vast amounts of money to play their studio created mix CD’s!!! Ah but that is a cynical view and after all Steve Osbourne produced New Order was playing at Deseo

“Hey Boy Hey Girl” I text my friend Twiggy (Marilyn Manson bassist hero, ex NIN)
“Superstar DJ” he replies

Anyway impossibly beautiful Mexican models and their consorts surrounded us – possibly escapees or non-invitees from the In Fashion Hotel opening up the road. Even forgiving the timing of the opening (unavoidable I guess) the premier event was an event as laughable as it was shallowly pretentious. A five storey hotel opening designed to look like a shopping mall that had just fed on a Phillipe Stark reduction range. Does the world need it? Does Playa del Carmen need it? Hmmm not sure about that, the 20 block community is already overflowing with cool boutique hotels, a mini Mexican Buenos Aries as much as it is St Tropez. I suspect In Fashion Hotel will discover that there is never gold to be mined from blatant disregard of taste, the community, and the market. Of course I will probably stay there next time and have a great time.....

A great time was indeed had on a day trip to Tulum....it is a unique place, the pure white sand endlessly folds into a rough blue sea. Endless houses and little guest complexes run into each other for miles - all the way to a beautiful reserve on the point at the end of the beach. There is a distinctive feel and look, part hippy, part yoga, part eco chic.. fascinating and with almost nothing to do once dinner is over an incredible place to spend a few days chilling, stretching and listening to the howling wind move sand dunes over night!
In the middle of this tranquillity is the late Columbian drug lord Pablo Escobar’s beach house! Casa Magna incredibly was recently run as an eco chic health spa after a million dollar renovation – till mysterious men in black masks and black helicopters persuaded the owners to ‘walk away’.... only a precursor to the total power the drug cartels have gained in Mexico this year. This has become the true drug war – not the losing war on drugs that the US has hidden it’s Sth American military presence behind for years!!! The war will escalate - even on the Mexican Riviera!

perfecto

Sun, 22 Feb 2009 08:53:56 -0600

Some nights are just better than others......

after a day of architects and engineer meetings and a last minute piece of craftsmanship Thursday was time for Charles Juhasz-Alverado’s opening at the Museo de Arte Contemporåneo de Puerto Rico ... With a revolving cast of assistants (Frances, Teo, Ana Rosa, and I being relative constants) the massive installation piece was ready. A mid career retrospective (not crisis!) perhaps, or a chance for the new administration at the Museo to show that they do have a finger on the pulse and can raise funds and host great shows after all.... Charles is a very significant artist, not only for his own work but also as a professor he has warped and manipulated a vast collection of minds into an appreciation of sculptural forms and wry politico-cultural observation.
Never shying away from the topic of status or life in Puerto Rico - there are numerous themes that run through the large installation pieces, whether they be the ever present termite, carpenter birds (local woodpeckers), story telling or the independence movements. The works on show have shown from Singapore to Sao Paulo to Moscow.. the craftsmanship is amazing and important to the language of the work, the ideas more so, the sly humour both lurking under each piece and occasionally bubbling on top like a froth on a mysterious golden shower. A bird perched on a large mirror glass razor blade in front of a 3 headed horse, clever drug references in PR Spanish slang - but a work of beauty in itself..... the opening was great, people for miles, the artist an hour late, thimbles of wine in plastic glasses, it could be both anywhere and nowhere but here.... a magical place..

But it was time to escape the art crowd and head for the fashion crowd and a show at the chic La Concha hotel of our friend Lisa Cappalli. –who had also been at Charles’s opening only a couple of hours before. It’s a small world amongst the creative community and links between people are so often either simple (Charles lived below Lisa’s late mother) or complex Lisa’s exotic lace and sexy creations are unique to her vision and unique to the island. It’s great stuff and well.... did I say sexy? Ah yes, sexy... The models, the setting, the bar, the people... and above all, the clothes. A few new white lace tunics and elegant late night shimmery pieces... all set off by a red heart and shoes accessorized by pink bows. A valentine’s touch and all perfectly fabulous.. I can’t say enough how good Lisa’s clothes are... but it was time to go and find the art kids... off to La Placita – a nearby area of bars and restaurants unique to San Juan.. it is so far off the tourist route that it is preserved as a social experience. CFO’s hang out with workers, artists hang out with artists hanging out with bankers and anyone else in search of a cheap drink. Based around a large indoor market during the day, the area comes alive at night after work, where all strata of society end up hanging out listening to street salsa, leaning on enormous bronze avocados and watching the pretty girls strut past.

By the time we got to the last bar open it was time for the last bar to close! The artist of honour had run a marathon in preparation and the celebration across the finishing line was taking it’s toll.... time to move on! I grab Teo (http://msa-x.msa-x.org/) and head to the newly opened Aqua for a late night snack of eggplant involtini and another dozen Medalla... is there an appropriate end to a perfect night...?

Planes, Trains and Mayors

Tue, 10 Feb 2009 23:03:48 -0600

It was a grand occasion a couple of weeks ago – the inauguration of the new mayor in Vieques. After years of dubious municipal authority, a broom of change has swept through the island and hopefully will help build a future for the community there. The previous mayor had been very active in forcing the navy to leave, and that is something that should have happened. But as we know good intentions can go so wrong! Which reminds me that the disadvantage of either living in San Juan or not understanding enough Spanish - is that Steven Soderbergh’s Che (Part 1) only ran for a couple of weeks and only in Spanish – who knows when or if the second part will arrive!

Anyway - the inauguration of 38 year old lawyer Evelyn Delerme Comacho as the new mayor of Vieques is a great chance for everyone to pull together and create a viable future for Vieques, to encourage sustainable development, utilize the beauty of the island to provide for and involve the local Vieques community. The actual event took place in the town square on a beautiful warm starry night, at least 1000 locals turned up for support, many dressed and ‘under’ dressed for the occasion and many ready to dance to the small hours. The ceremony included welcomes in both Spanish and English (unimaginable under the previous administration), fireworks, ex Governors, mayors from all around Puerto Rico and Secretary of State Kenneth Mclintock. Evelyn spoke of community, fighting petty crime, development and the lovely Esperanza (future home of El Blok). My friends Michael and Keith (from the soon to be open La Reina Mexican canteen) and I celebrated, and celebrated, and celebrated..... I was spoilt by being able to meet and have dinner with Ramero Barcelo (ex Governor, exSan Juan mayor, ex PR Resident Commissioner) and his lovely wife and friends. It was indeed a grand occasion – although perhaps the last Jagermeister shots were, well,.... unnecessary.

Having been also spoilt by flying over to Vieques in a friends own plane, I thought I would take the opposite approach and return to San Juan via public transport. It can be done – they said it couldn’t but it can!. It involved a ferry to Fajardo ($2 and 90 minutes), a publico bus to Rio Piedras ($6 and 90 minutes), the urban train from Rio Piedras to Hato Rey ($1.50 and 15 mins) and finally the glorious Agua Express from Hato Rey to downtown Old San Juan in time for the mayhem of San Sebastian festival... 4 hours and $12.00 A great 2 days of Planes, Trains, Ferrys, and ....publicos.

We are hoping that Evelyn’s mayoralty will not include concepts such as the SERIOUS proposal (Senate bill 328) to fund the shortfall of the 2010 Caribbean Games in Mayaguez, Puerto Rico, using revenues from the sale of gold bullion from Spanish galleons that might be found off the coast. Yes, MIGHT be found. The previous Administration managed to plug the 2008 budget deficit by counting uncollected taxes as an asset (hmm, but why are they uncollected? Perhaps uncollectible would be a better description) but undiscovered bullion has to be to the most creative financing of government operations yet. It is this sort of logic that is so obviously missing in the new Obama administration and the wreckage of Sir Francis Drake’s galleon is eagerly awaited in san Juan and definitely Washington D.C.

la Fiesta de poner fin a todas las Fiestas

Fri, 23 Jan 2009 06:47:07 -0600

I SURVIVED I SURVIVED FIESTA DE SAN SEBASTIAN 
 Oh yes, the biggest block party this side of Notting Hill!
The leading Artesan Fair this side of ....Basel?
The longest Back To School party this side of the Florida pan handle.!
The largest party in the Caribbean!!!!!

Fiesta de San Sebastian defies logic and, to a certain extent, description but it is huge and it marks the end of the ‘holiday’ season in Puerto Rico, finishing as it does on Martin Luther King day. The day after this four day party is the official beginning of the new school semester, professors go to face their unwilling combatants, government agencies go back to work, companies begin to function normally. This year was a little different in that Tuesday also coincided with Obama Day, but perhaps the effect of that was a little muted by the seemingly endless rounds of concerts and pre-inauguration speeches given by the (then) President elect in the days before! Inauguration day teeters on a made for TV event, complete with knockout rounds (Primaries and then elections) and semifinals with Bono and Beyonce in NY Thankfully the right contestant won!
Hopes are high in Puerto Rico for this US administration to not only toss cash laden necklaces in to the drained coffers of an economically shattered island, but also to move towards some stateside resolution of Puerto Rican status. The nomination of Eric Holder as Attorney General has definitely been greeted with applause from both sides of the political fence, Holder having been a major force behind Bill Clinton’s last minute pardons to the FALN (a Puerto Rican nationalist movement) members federally held political prisoners – a far more conscientious move than the folly of a get-out-of-jail free card for fugitive money guy Mark Rich!

Pero... the FIESTA – a 50 year tradition of 4 straight days of drinking, centered around Calle San Sebastian– only ½ a block from the house! Friends’ mental preparation left me some knowledge of what to expect but 300,000 people rammed into a few short city blocks seem to develop a mighty thirst!! Encouraged my massive corporate sponsorship from liquor companies and other youth orientated products (local ale Medalla reportedly spent over $1 million in marketing around the Fiesta!) the alcohol consumption is enough to keep most local business afloat for the entire year ahead.
Figuring that the tide was too strong to swim against, or even through, I spent 2 nights working behind the bar at our loving bar Sombrilla Rosa. It had to be safer behind than in front and it was true! I must have served at least 800 beers each night. Tres para cinco – 3 cans for $5 - preferably simultaneously poured into plastic beer bongs provided by the liquor companies!! It took two days to realize that the word for these bongs is yarda – for obvious reasons. It was mayhem and I loved it!

OBSERVATIONS ABOUT FIESTA GOERS

Love yardas
Love bright shiny things – especially flashing promotional items from liquor companies
Love salsa
Are frequently hot girls in low waisted jeans
Love yardas
Love reggaton
Love to sing
Do not tip
Love beer generally, but if offered Heineken at a good price love Heineken even more
Love Heinekin yardas
Do not tip
Love hats – especially green Irish ones promoting German beers
Love to sing in the streets until 6AM
Are generally well behaved
HAVE A GREAT TIME

ASALTO NAVIDENO

Wed, 31 Dec 2008 21:18:34 -0600

Christmas season seems to last in Puerto Rico from approximately Dec 1st thru to the week after Día de Reyes (Three Kings Day) on January 6th! Perhaps in non election years it may be shorter, but I doubt it! Regardless of political, religious or grinch persuasion the and winter solstice (or birth of Jesus should one prefer) in the Caribbean is joyously celebrated with a mixture of holidays, music and alcohol. una tormenta perfecta! I have no idea why I love Puerto Rican Christmas!!

Take last weekend for example, 3 nights of unforgettable musical delights.

Friday night we were graciously invited on a parranda.....Puerto Ricans are known for their unforgettable "parrandas or trullas navideñas" - a small group of friends gathering together to "asaltar" each other. The Latin version of Christmas caroling. Most parranderos play some sort of instrument, either guitarras, tamboriles, güiro maracas, or palitos. And everyone sings.... but the songs are not necessarily religious, and definitely do not include Jingle Bells (apparently it’s in English or something) but sure have holiday spirit. After 3 weeks of Christmas so far I have heard these wonderful songs so often I will be happy to let these songs rest till next year!

Our parranda began at about 10 pm with a full bar and great snacks at the Juharz Rivera household, and then off to other houses in Old San Juan like a flock of singing gallahs... late enough to surprise and wake sleeping friends. Mind you - it’s only a game of surprising the unsuspecting victims. The parranderos are given plenty of "hints" before hand that they will receive a parranda - the strongest hint is the appearance of 50 singing revelers outside the door in the small hours!!!

With much furtive opening of shutters and peering through cracks a house either decides to or decides not to receive the musical locusts – who then descend on the house devouring wine and whatever nibbles are offered. It’s an amazing and wonderful experience, meeting new friends and neighbours, and visiting houses that previously have only been an anonymous door.

Each visit went on for an hour before everyone, including the owners of each house, leave to descend on someone else. We grew to about 100 people at one stage, ending up in the wonderful hospitality of Chuco – a professor at UPR – and his wife. Amazing hosts at any time but especially so at around 3 or 4 in the morning offering the traditional chicken soup (asopao de pollo) and Christmas spirits. By this stage the heavens had also responded so getting home was a problem!! By the time the rain had slowed enough for us few stragglers to run for home, dawn was clawing through the clouds....

Thinking that was to be the highlight, Saturday delivered another surprise.. the La Perla Xmas party. La Perla is a community on the edge of Old San Juan that lives and breathes to it’s own rules. It’s poor, proud, insular, and one of the birthplaces of reggaetón. But it was PARTE time and friends dragged me (well, I ran actually) to see the best contemporary artist in San Juan play an impromptu street show to 500 people (next show - May 2009 - 20,000 at the Coliseum!!) in their (assumed) old hood!
CALLE 13 are outrageously talented, brothers Residente and Visitante and occasional sister PG-13 (ha ha) don’t really come from La Perla, but they come from Puerto Rico and their literate, funny and unbelievably clever lyrics and music redefine what urban music can be. This is commentary, this is a reflection of the streets through the eyes of a provocateur, this is fun! CALLE 13 are worthy of more words but until then it was a great show, hip hop meets reggaton meets everything else, live horns, a digeredoo sample and arrangements as clever as anything being made in the world. Lyrics like this from their current hit “No Hay Nadie Como Tú” (with Café Tacuba) only hint at the uniqueness....(there would be an embedded video HERE but Sony/BMG apparently don’t believe in embedded promotional videos..... is that a sound I hear in the coffin of the music industry?)

In the world there are ignorant people and astute people
there are virgins, there are prostitutes
rich, poor, and middle class....

..... in the world there are vitamins and proteins
marijuana, ecstasy and cocaine...

but, but, but...

there is nobody like you, my love
nobody like you
(apologies for translation)

Finally Sunday brings a small event at the Puerto Rican Institute of Popular Culture as a tribute to local composer and guitarist Ernesto Cordero. Raised in Puerto Rico in the 1940s he has been a professor of composition at UPR since the 70s and I recently saw him play guitar here with the Russian Virtuosi Chamber conducted by the legendary St Petersburg conductor Spivakof. A diversely talented musician and composer, the gathering for friends and family was a gentle ending to a ‘spirited’ weekend....

¡FELIZ NAVIDAD!